Much of this summer’s opportunity to live and work in Ireland has not gone according to plan. With a worldwide pandemic going on, that is to be expected, of course. I count myself incredibly lucky to have lined up this opportunity and sorted out work, housing, and a work visa before the world shut down, and even more lucky to have been able to travel here.

Walking up to the Gap of Dunloe from the Black Valley.

It was clear before I left the United States that many of the experiences I was looking forward to would not be possible this year. I was excited to finally getting to visit Skellig Michael, a harsh and stunning island off the coast of Ireland that was home to a small group of monks from the 7th to the 12th century. This World Heritage Site is closed for the summer though, as are many other boat trips, tours, and heritage sites around the country.

What I hadn’t fully realized before getting here was the opportunity that this strange time would afford me. With travel restrictions in place through June, Kerry’s usually crowded small roads are quieter than I have ever seen them, and driving is much less daunting. I have taken this opportunity to visit places that I would not have traveled to if the traffic was heavier.

One of my first trips out took me to the Black Valley and the Gap of Dunloe. Although the Gap of Dunloe is a beautiful way through high rugged mountains, it is also usually clogged with walkers, cyclists, pony carts, and the odd tourist in a car. When I traveled the gap I met one other walker, two cyclists, and a couple cars on my three hour hike. Otherwise it was me and sheep and haunting echoes of birds high above as the sound got caught between the two mountains.

Another beautiful but busy drive is at the tip of the Dingle peninsula. Slea Head drive is a narrow road that is built between the mountain and the sea, and affords beautiful views whether looking landward or out to the ocean. It is also a popular day trip for buses, and for that reason it has never taken priority in my list of things to see and do on my short visits to Kerry. However, with the country still bound by county travel restrictions, it seems I am the only tourist in Kerry, and on the blustery weekday afternoon that I drove it, I was quite alone for much of the trip.

For a compulsive planner like myself, this summer is a lesson in appreciating what is available to appreciate, and letting go of the plans that don’t work out. One month on, I can say that is very much working to my advantage. We shall see what tomorrow’s adventure brings.